Advent calendar 2021- 2 December

Our second Advent calendar post 2021 is:

One wool fragment from the Viking age settlement of Birka, Sweden. The fragment is labelled as sprang by Agnes Geijer. The fragment is made out of a thin 2-plied wool thread. It measures 0,5 x 3 cm. It’s difficult to say if the fragment originally was dyed.

The chamber grave contains many interesting and costly items. The objects from the grave Bj660 can be found here. Dating is Viking period 800-1100 AD.

Today it can be found in the collections of the Swedish History museum. 

/ Amica and Maria

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Advent calendar 2021 – 1 December

Our first Advent calendar post 2021 is:

A tablet found in Uppsala, Sweden. Dated to the late medieval period. It’s made of wood. We don’t know what kind of wood. It measures 6cm x 6 cm. The corners have been damaged over time and we guess it have been less round when it was new.

Today it can be found in the collections of the Swedish History museum.

We find this size very handy when weaving.

/ Amica and Maria



Paper at Nesat XIV

This year we presented our paper at Nest XIV. “Colours in medieval textiles versus archeological textiles from Swedish cities” was the title of our abstract.
Nest XIV was supposed to take place in Oulo in Finland but was first postponed a couple of times and then became a digital version on Zoom. All participants sent in their paper presentation in advance and only the session discussion was a live talk. A lot of interesting papers were presented! We can’t wait for the publication!!!

Since our talk was pre recorded we decided to put it up on YouTube. Here is the link:

We are so happy that we finally can share some of our research that we have been working on the last couple of years, it has taken long due to the pandemic… But finally we can share the amazing colors and fine fabrics from the medieval seal bags from Riksarkivet / National archive


Best wishes,
Amica and Maria



Systematisk växtfärgning

Systematisk växtfärgning

Detta är en kurs i växtfärgning för dig som på djupet vill förstå vilka parametrar som spelar in och påverkar färgresultatet. Vi kommer att färga ett antal olika serier där vi provar olika betprocent, blötläggningstider, pH- modifierare och efterbearbetning. Vi startar på torsdagen den 1:a juli och slutar på lördagen 3:e juli med montering och uppmärkning av våra färgresultat. Vi färgar med krapp, koschenill, indigo, vau och valnöt.
Kursen hålls i vår ateljé i Bromma, Stockholm

Pris: 2100:- inkl. material och fika
Antalet platser är begränsat till 8.
För att anmäla dig maila till: historical.textiles@gmail.com
Märk ditt mail med “Systematisk växtfärgning”

Kursledare: Amica Sundström och Maria Neijman

Korgkurs

Välkommen på kurs i korgflätning med pil. Den skickliga korgmakare och fenomenale kursläraren Steen Madsen håller kurs i Stockholm.

Under två dagar får du lära dig de grundläggande teknikerna för flätning av korgar med pil. Vi flätar med pil UTAN bark, som man gjorde i förr i tiden.

Av utrymmesskäl flätar vi mindre korgar på 5 liter eller mindre.
På två dagar lyckas de flesta fläta en korg – kanske med ett handtag – plus kanske några mindre saker.

Under kursen pratar vi om hur du får tag på pil – eller till och med odlar pil. Och hur du kan lära dig mer.

Kopior av korgarbeten visas från stenåldern (Sverige har världens äldsta pilflätade objekt, Malmömjärden) genom medeltiden och fram till idag.

Ta med: en skarp slöjdkniv (Frost eller Mora 120 är bra) och en vass och bra sekatör. Oömma kläder eller förkläde, samt inneskor. Samt en tyngd på ca 2-3 kg, en sten eller en hantelvikt.

Plats: Historical textiles ateljé på Spetsvägen 15, Bromma

Tid: 11-12 september lördag 09:00 – 17:00 och söndag 09:00- 15:00 med avbrott för lunch och fika.
Antal platser: 8 platser. Vid färre än 6 deltagare ställs kursen in.
Pris: 2450:-
Anmälan: maila till historical.textiles@gmail.com och ange vilken kurs du vill gå. Vi sänder faktura till alla i turordning av inkomna anmälningar. Betalning = bekräftelse av din plats.

Villkor: Återbud senast 2 veckor innan kursstart för att få tillbaka full återbetalning. Om någon annan kan fylla din plats så får du givetvis tillbaka dina pengar.
https://www.steen-madsen.dk/

Mandelgrenpriset 2021 / The Mandelgren prize 2021

ENGLISH BELOW
Som många av er kanske redan känner till så har vi ända sedan starten av vår blogg älskat och återskapat några av de medeltida guldskinnsbroderierna. Vi har drivits av en önskan att förstå användandet av broderiernas funktion, en nyfikenhet på hur de tillverkats, en längtan efter att skapa tillsammans med vänner och en önskan att få se broderierna hur originalen kunde sett ut då de var i sin guldglänsande prakt.

Vi har analyserat alla broderier som finns i samlingen hos Statens Historiska museum, Ilsbotäcket hos Hälsinglands museum och Maskutäcket hos Nationalmuseum i Finland. Kvar på listan finns ett broderi som idag tillhör The Metropolitan museum i New York.

Svenska Fornminnesföreningen delar ut Mandelgrenpriset.
“Mandelgrenpriset ska minna om konstnären och folklivsforskaren Nils Månsson Mandelgrens (1813–1899) banbrytande dokumentation av historiska och arkeologiska bilder, föremål och miljöer, häpnadsväckande i kvalité och omfattning. Nils Månsson Mandelgren hade ett brinnande intresse för kulturhistoria men även för sin samtid och reste över hela Sverige för att dokumentera konst, miljöer, människor, och arkeologiska artefakter. Priset till hans minne tillkom på initiativ av docenten i konstvetenskap Lennart Karlsson (1933-2014) som under tjugo år arbetade på Statens historiska museum som specialist med särskilt intresse för medeltida konst. Priset delas ut årligen sedan 2016. Svenska Fornminnesföreningens styrelse beslutar vem som skall få priset.”

Här kan ni läsa Svenska fornminnesföreningens motivering till varför de valt att ge 2021 års pris till oss.

Vi är, som ni kanske redan förstått, otroligt smickrade och glada över den oerhört fina utmärkelsen. Vi vill rikta ett stort tack till Svenska fornminnesföreningen. Det är en ära att få tillhöra den framstående skara av tidigare pristagare till Mandelgrenpriset.
Vi vill också tacka alla som varit med och broderat och hjälpt till med rekonstruktionerna av broderierna. Utan er hade det inte varit möjligt!

Vad skall vi göra med prispengarna? Då det återigen går att resa, skall vi självklart resa till New York och analysera det återstående broderiet.
Och så skall vi fira ihop med alla som deltagit i rekonstruktionsarbetena.
/ Amica och Maria



ENGLISH
As many of you may already know, we have loved and recreated some of the medieval gilt leather embroideries since the start of our blog. We have been driven by a desire to understand the use of the embroidery’s function, a curiosity about how they are made, a desire to create with friends and a wish to see the embroideries look like the originals could have looked like when they were in their golden splendor. 

We have analyzed all the embroideries in the collection at the Statens Historiska museum, Ilsbo coverlet at Hälsinglands museum and Masku coverlet at the National Museum in Finland. Remaining on the list is an embroidery that today belongs to The Metropolitan Museum in New York.

Svenska Fornminnesföreningen (The Swedish Antiquities Association) awards the Mandelgren Prize. “The Mandelgren Prize should be reminiscent of the artist and folklore researcher Nils Månsson Mandelgren’s (1813–1899) pioneering documentation of historical and archaeological images, objects and environments, astonishing in quality and scope. Nils Månsson Mandelgren had a burning interest in cultural history but also in his time and travel all over Sweden to document art, environments, people, and archeological artifacts. The prize has been awarded annually since 2016. The Swedish Antiquities Association’s board decides who will receive the prize. “

Here is a translation of the motivation.
“The Mandelgren Prize in 2021 is awarded to county handicraft consultant Maria Neijman and first antiquarian Amica Sundström for their work in deepening and broadening knowledge about medieval picture and pattern worlds and medieval gilded leather coverlets through documentation and reconstructions. The prize money is SEK 100,000.

Through extensive collection of examples and material and technical analyzes, an understanding is created which is then translated into craftsmanship according to medieval traditions and principles. By reconstructing the coverlets, new knowledge is generated about the material’s functions and limitations, but also insights into what was possible to achieve in terms of craftsmanship during the coverlets time of creation.

Maria Neijman and Amica Sundström have, among other things, within their company Historical Textiles inventoried the gilded leather coverlets inside and outside Sweden and reached new and exciting scientific findings on how the coverlets were used and in many cases also reused.

In collaboration with craft associations and other interested parties, they have recreated both well-known and lesser-known textiles from the Middle Ages, disseminated knowledge about older craft techniques, and produced reconstructions for exhibitions.

With the Mandelgren Prize, the Swedish Antiquities Association wants to draw attention to Maria Neijman and Amica Sundström for their solid historical and material knowledge, for their competence and the high ambition in documentation work, and for their genuine desire to spread knowledge about visual worlds, objects and crafts.”

We are, as you may have already understood, incredibly flattered and happy about the extremely fine award. We would like to thank the Swedish Antiquities Association. It is an honor to belong to the prominent crowd of previous winners of the Mandelgren Prize. We would also like to thank everyone who has been involved in embroidering and helping with the reconstructions of the embroideries. Without you it would not have been possible! 

What are we going to do with the prize money? When it is possible to travel again, we will of course travel to New York and analyze the remaining embroidery. And we will celebrate together with everyone who has participated in the reconstruction work. 
/ Amica and Maria

Advent calendar December 24 2020

Today we celebrate Christmas in Sweden. We call it Jul. A name that originate from the tradition we celebrated before people up in the north became Christians.

Therefor we would like to share some Viking age things.

Wool combs from Norway. Dated 800-950. For combing wool.

God Jul! /Amica and Maria

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Advent calendar December 23 2020

Today we go Royal with a linen collar with some amazing bobin laces.
The owner was King Gustav II Adolf/ Gustavus Adolphus of Sweden, He reigned over Sweden between 1611-1632. He was shot and died the 6th of November 1632 in Lützen during the 30 year war.

The collar is made out of a very thin and evenly woven plain linen weave. The stitching is to die for!!!
The bobin lace is also made out of linen thread, two plied.

Today the collar is in the collection of The Royal Armoury, Stockholm.
/ Amica & Maria
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Advent calendar December 22 2020

Fulled fabrics. The fabrics during the Middle Ages were often fulled. When fabrics from that time is found in the ground, the majority of the nap is often gone. That means the fabrics that we find give a different surface then the fabric originally had. Also fabrics other than archaeological, may have lost a lot of its fulled surface. Here we can see some evidence of that.

The examples are both from gilded leather coverlets, where the gilded strip ( or a twisted linen strip) has fallen off and exposes a fabric that has significantly more nap than the rest of the fabric.
Both fabrics are dated to 15th or 16th century.

The first fabric is from the Ilsbo embroidery. Now in Hälsinglands museums collections.

The second fabric is from Dalhem II embroidery. Enlarge photo to get a even better view of the nap. Now in the collections of The Swedish History Museum.

/ Amica & Maria

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Advent calendar December 21 2020

Today we would like to raise the idea of a perfect result. That seems to be a fairly modern approach. We see repeatedly during our analyses that the perfect result is a non existing thing during the Middle Ages. This embroidery from Ärentuna is a good example of that.

Check out the blue square with the yellow pattern in. During the sewing someone ran out of yellow yarn. And continued with a light orange yarn instead. That someone, was also a bit unfocused and turned one of the wings of the pattern upside down.

Misstakes happens all the time when people are doing crafts. But during the Middle Ages people seemed less interested in fixing them. We find this very heartwarming and would like to strike a blow for not correcting things too often. It’s a bit like live TV. Don’t mention it, then the audience will notice it, just move on and everything will be just fine.

The embroidery is dated 14-15th century.
/ Amica & Maria
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