5000 followers on Facebook

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När vi startade vår Facebooksida trodde vi aldrig att vi skulle få så många följare. Vi har precis passerat 5000 följare och vi måste fira med några häftiga historiska textilier.

Vi presenterar vår favoritdel på textiler- stadkanter. När du hittar dessa på ett gammalt tyg, så ger de väldigt viktig information om det tyget.
De talar om var som är varp och vad som är inslag. Detta är grunden i all vävning!

Därför delar vi med oss av en samling olika stadkanter. Hoppas att du gillar dom lika mycket som vi gör. Och tack för att du följer oss ❤

When we started our Facebook page we had no idea that we would get som many followers. We have just passed 5000 and we must celebrate with some awesome historical textiles.

We present to you out favorite part of textiles- selvages. When you find them in an old fabric,
they give really important information about that fabric.

They tell us what thread is warp and what is weft. The basic of all weaving! 

We therefor present to you a variation of selvages. Hope you like them as much as we do! And thank you for following us ❤
/Amica and Maria

All pictures Historical Textiles. CC-By
If sharing please give us cred for the pictures. Thank you!

Middelaldercenter- more pictures 

Elina is spinning

Maria is checking up on the roses

Amica is overseeing the rose garden

Christine is having a stroll in town

-Hey, should we keep that weaving misstake in the kirtle?
– Hrm…. Well, there are a lot of weaving misstakes in the fabrics from the 14th and 15th century… Let’s keep it!

More Middelaldercenter 

Some pictures from Denmark. We are happy to spend times with https://www.facebook.com/iloinenjoutsen/

Riku is carving a new spoon.

Elina is spinning.

Amica in out house, the weavers house.

Maria, is putting on the veil.

Amica is sewing on her new kirtle. Plant dyed with madder.

Prepping the lantern. Elina and Riku.

Amica and Mervi. Mervis is making a pair of needlebounded socks for a client.

Riku and Mervi in their house, the dyer’s.

Kardvädd/ Fuller’s teasel

I en del äldre bilder kan man ibland se kardor gjorda av tistlar. Dessa är inte till för att karda med utan för att rugga tyger som skall överskäras.

In some older pictures you can sometimes see  carders made out of wild teasel, aka fuller’s teasel.  These are not used to card wool with but to raising a nap on cloth   before cutting the nap.

Här är två par kardor från samlingarna hos Upplandsmuseet.
Here are two pair of carders from the collections at Upplandsmuseet.

If you want to read more about fuller´s teasel, there is some information about the plant on Wikipedia.

Planerar sommaren/ Planning the summer

Historical textiles kommer att dyka upp på lite olika ställen under sommaren. Vi lägger till löpande då fler platser kommer till.  Vill man träffa oss så finns vi här:

Historical textiles will appear in some different places during the summer. We add on a regular basis as more places are added. If you want to meet us, we are here:

5 -11 juni/ 5th- 11th June
Tillsammans med/ Together with- Iloinen Joutsen- Merry Swan
Denmark- Middelaldercentret 

29 juni- 2 juli/ 29th of June- 2th of July
Tillsammans med/ Together with- Iloinen Joutsen- Merry Swan
Finland- Turku medeltidsmarknad/ Turku medieval market

8-9 juli / 8th- 9th July
Sverige- I Förfäders Spår – Vikingatida Marknad/ Viking market/ Ancestors’ Footsteps

29- 30 juli/ 29th- 30th July
Sverige- Historiefärgarna 2017 Norrköpings stadsmuseum

Hoppas att vi ses!
Hope to see you!

/ Amica & Maria

A washing guide for linen

Some years ago Maria wrote a washing guide for linen.
A washing guide for linen

I sometimes get questions about linen. I will try to answer those questions here, without getting too technical. But here are some technical facts anyway 😉 The linen fibers are straight (think of straight hair, the fibers look very much the same). This means they have almost zero flexibility and stretch. They contain natural glue. When spinning the thread, water is added to the fibers and the glue sticks them together, which makes the thread really strong.
1. When buying fabric. It’s preferable that you wash your linen before you make something out of it. Linen shrinks about 5% during the first washing. Some qualities may shrink as much as 10%.
2. To avoid permanent breakage of the fibers you need to pre-soak the fabric. This is easiest to do in a bath tub. Try to lay the fabric down as flat as possible. I always try to go from one side to the other of the tub with the fabric. After all the fabric is down, I fill the tub up with lukewarm water and leave the fabric to soak for 4-5 hours. This allows the fibers to absorb as much water as possible. The first time linen fibers get wet (after spinning, that is) they will ”permanent” the shape they have when they come into contact with water. If you lay them out flat, they will more or less stay that way in the future. If you crumble them up into a pile in the washing machine, they will break – and get permanent breakage lines.

Pictures by: Markus Andersson
RinglaRingla - FEL-2

3. After the soaking you can wash the fabric in a washing machine. The natural glue in the fibers doesn’t like higher temperatures than 70 degrees Celsius. So just to be safe, use a washing program of no more than 60 degrees. If possible, avoid intense spin cycles at the end of the program.
4. Detergent – no optic whitener! Just use normal detergent. And NO softener! Softener ”coats” the fibers and will prevent the linen from absorbing water and cause it to lose its shine. (Softener is also highly allergenic and extremely bad for the environment!) ”But linen is so rough”, you might think. Well… If treated right, linen is soft. Or maybe you should get cotton instead.
5. Drying. A straight fiber wants to dry in a straight position. Drip drying is the best method. Clothespins are your best friends here. If possible, allow the fabric to dry in normal room temperature, or outdoors. If this is not possible, a room with a heating fan will do fine. Tumble drying is a BIG NO-NO! Why? The heat will dissolve the glue and the fibers will separate – and when separated, they break easier. The fabric eventually becomes ”fluffy” on the surface, like flannel, and its ability to become smooth and shiny, like silk, will be gone forever.
6. A flat fiber is a happy fiber. After drying, mangling is highly recommended! If the drying is done right, the linen will get smooth and shiny like silk. Also, the life of the linen increases every time you do this. A mangle isn’t something that every person owns, and they can sometimes be hard to find. The important thing is that it’s NOT the kind with a heating aggregate attached to it. In Birka, the archaeological finds tell us that people knew to treat their linen right. Among the finds are a shoulder blade from a moose and a glass smoother.  The latter is a round, smooth piece of glass, and when rubbed across the linen, using the hard shoulder blade for support underneath the fabric, the linen fibers flatten and become shiny. A steaming iron can also be useful. Avoid the steam! Even if the iron often indicates that the highest temperature is for linen, you can turn down the heat a little bit to save the important glue in your fabric. Use a spray bottle with lukewarm water to dampen your fabric before ironing. Wait until the water has soaked INTO the fabric, and isn’t just lying on top of it. Iron in the same direction as the warp and weft, not bias-wise. Use one hand to hold the edge and stretch the fabric, then work your way towards the hand. Ironing will make your fabric flat and smooth but not especially shiny.
6. Make yourself something nice out of your stunning fabric. Treated right, your fabric will live a long time. Please tell me if there is something that I’ve missed, something I could explain better or if you would like to share something else concerning linen! /Maria

Intarsia embroidery class

This weekend is full of intarsia embroidery. We are holding a course in Stockholm. The participants just skipped out for lunch and they are all very excited about getting started. Giving you some pictures of the samples they have made during the morning. 

Diamantkypert efter fynd från Birka /Diamond twill after find from Birka

Vi har nu fått in diamantkypertvävt tyg. Tyget är en rekonstruktion efter fynd från Birka. Dateringen är 800- 1000.
Tyget är vävt i ren ny ull. Trådtätheten är 36 tr/ cm i varp och 16 tr/ cm i inslag.
Bredden är 158 cm inklusive stadkanter och och vikten på tyget är 165 gram/ kvadratmeter.
Vi har provfärgat tyget med växtfärger och det fungerar fantastiskt bra.
Priset är 620:-/m
Tyget går också att beställa i olika växtfärgade färger om så önskas. Fråga efter prisuppgift.
För att beställa: skicka mail historical.textiles@gmail.com

We have now received a diamond twill. The fabric is a reconstruction after findings from Birka. The dating is 800 -1000 AD.
The fabric is woven in pure new wool. The thread count is 36 tr / cm in warp and 16 tr / cm in weft.
The width is 158 cm including the selwages and the weight of the fabric is 165 grams / square meter.
We have test dyed the fabric with vegetable dyes, and it works fantastically well.
The price is 620sek/m or 61 Euro/m
The fabric can also be ordered in various plant dyed colors if desired. Ask for a price.
To order: send email to historical.textiles@gmail.com