Our eighteenth advent calendar post is a tablet woven band. The band is made in silk and metal thread. The band comes from Vreta Abbey, Östergötland, Sweden. The abbey opened in ca 1105 and closed down 1582.
They band is dated to approx. 13- 15th century.
Now in collections of Historiska museet, Sweden. / Amica and Maria Photo: Ola Myrin, SHM
Our twelfth advent calendar post is once again items from the Oseberg burial, Norway. But this time it is fragments from a tablet woven bands. The textile is made out of wool.
The ship, from where the textile was found, was built 820 AD and the grave was covered 834 AD. The ship was covered with clayey soil. This has protected the grave as clay-rich soil is very low in oxygen.
We would like to wish you all a happy weekend with a historical textile!
This week we focus on another celebrity from Denmark, from the exhibition at National museum in Copenhagen. The belt of Eric of Pomerania.
We would also like to celebrate that we have now over 10300 followers on Facebook 😀
The belt is tablet woven in silk and gilded silver. Originally the silk was very colourful in red, blue and green. The gold have fallen off but on some places one can see traces of it. The belt is dated to: girdle and belt mounts- early 13th – early 14th century.
Buckle and strap end- mid-15th century (Fingerlin 1971; Nørlund 1937)
A full analysis have been done by Viktoria Holmqvist and her article is published in: North European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles X Series: Ancient Textiles Series Volume: 5, Copyright Date: 2010, Published by: Oxbow Books
Thank you Viktoria for an amazing job <3
We would like to wish you all a happy weekend with a historical textile.
This week we focus on a chasuble in silk from Ösmo church, Södermanland, Sweden. The church is whose oldest parts are from the 1100s, is mostly famous for it’s paintings made by Albertus Pictor.
The fabric is a silk damask in a pomegranate pattern, from Italy. Now pale red/ pinkish.
It’s decorated with two different tablet woven bands. The band that is attached to the back of chasuble, in the shape of a cross, is woven in silk with gold thread in the brocading weft. Green and blue silk is still visible on that band. The band that is attached around the neck line is possibly made from linen and have a gold thread in the brocading weft. We find is quite amusing that the neck band is not at all centered in the front.
The shape of the chasuble have been changed and some material have been cut off. The item shows some interesting piecing and give us an idea that the fabric was once very valuable. There are no traces of pattern matching. The seams shows that the silk fabric was sewn together with back stitches. One can see the characteristic V-shaped stitches through the gap in between the pieces.
The linen lining is very impressive with it’s dark blue colour. Most likely dyed with woad.
The chasuble can be found in the collections of Statens Historiska museum in Sweden. Here is the link to the object in the database. The chasuble is dated to mid -to late 15th century.
/ Amica and Maria
All images subject to CC BY SA. Photographer: Historical Textiles, specified at sharing of images. Make sure to do the same with the pictures from Historiska
Picture from Historiska museets database
Backside. With the decoration in shape of a cross
Detail of vertical part of cross
Detail from horizontal part of the tablet woven decoration
Detail from horizontal part of the tablet woven decoration
Detail from the tablet woven band attached to the neckline.
We would like to wish you all a happy weekend with some historical textiles.
We would also like to celebrate that we have over 10.000 followers in Facebook.
We could never have thought that there were so many textiles nerd’s out there. <3
This week we focus on fringes on various historical textiles. All, except one, are woven in silk. The last one is woven in linen.
The fringes are attached to various items all related to church textiles.
The fringes can all be found in the collections of Statens Historiska museum in Sweden.
The items are dated to 14-17th century.
Since we like to things easy for everyone, including the people that haven’t got Facebook, we are moving our weekend picture.
This weekend we would like to celebrate with a lovely tablet woven band from Alvastra convent. Dating “Middel Ages” in the database. We are placing it rather late, probably to the 15th century. Material is silk and gold and/or silver.
Now in the collections of Historiska museet in Stockholm, Sweden.
Since we in Sweden are labelling the weeks with a number this weeks number is 14. So this post is 14/2018.
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Här kommer ett tunt brickvävt band från Stockholm. Bandet kommer från samma kvarter som detta tyg.
Trådantal/ cm 2
Tunna kanter, grovt mittparti
Tunt brickvävt band med tunt garn på sidorna och grovt garn i mitten. Inslaget syns som öglor i kanten.
Då inslaget ligger som öglor i kanten finns misstanke om att det har funnits ett annat garn i ytterkant men att detta garn har brutits ner i jorden. Vilket skulle kunna indikera på att det garnet varit av ett annat material än ull, möjligen lin. Då vridningen på garnet på brickan i mitten av bandet har en längre flottering än garnet på sidobrickorna så föreligger det en möjlighet att denna bricka endast är trädd i 2 hål.
Here, a thin tablet woven band from Stockholm. The band comes from the same block as this fabric.
Spin direction 1
Spin direction 2
Tread count/ cm -1
Tread count/ cm -2
Single placed tablets
Thin at sides, think in the middle
Thin tablet woven band with thin yarn at the sides and thick yarn in the middle. There are visible weft loops at the edges.
Since there are weft loops at the edge, we might suspect that there used to be another yarn in the edge, but that it has disappeared in the earth. Which could indicate that this yarn was of another material than wool. Then the twist of the yarn from the tablet in the middle of the band has longer floats than the yarn from the side tablets, so it is possible that only two holes of the center tablet were threaded.