44/2018- The archaeological medieval textile fragments from Swedish cities

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På Historiska museet i Stockholm pågår just nu ett arbete med att förbättra och dela information om de ca 1000 medeltida arkeologiska textilfragment som museet förvaltar. Det innebär att nya bilder fotograferas och fragmenten kommer att analyseras och kategoriseras i visuella grupper, som gör att de blir lättare att prata om olika textilkvalitéer. Bild och analys kommer sedan att föras in i museets databas och bli sökbart. Det kommer dock dröja ytterligare innan det är publicerat eftersom museet byter föremålsförvaltningssystem. Men vi kan inte hålla oss utan kommer börja lägga upp fina nyfotograferade fynd här på vår blogg.

Fyndmaterialet som nu gås igenom kommer från arkeologiska utgrävningar som gjorts framförallt på 1970-talet i olika svenska städernas stadskärnor. En del av samlingen som finns på museet kommer från Enköping, från kvarteret Traktören, och den första textilien som vi visar idag kommer därifrån.

Det arkeologiska medeltida textilfragmenten från våra städer kan delas in i fem grupper
1- borttappade föremål, ex en vante
2 -spill från tillverkning
3 -fragment av utslitna klädesplagg
4 -rester av grövre emballage textil
5 -trådar, filtad ull eller lös ull

Av de ca 1000 fragmenten som finns på museet tillhör en mycket liten del grupp ett.

Fragmentet på bilden är en 2/1 kypert, ull. Fragmentet är mycket slitet så det kommer troligen från ett utslitet klädesplagg eller en inrednings textil som exempelvis en dyna. Idag är textilen ljusbrun och ingen synlig färg framträder. Men om man tittar uppe till höger i bilden syns släppta trådar. Detta indikerar att det här har varit en vävd rand som bundit i tuskaft/ inslagsrips. Dateringen är “medeltid”. Vi placerar denna väv till 1300-talet då den har det karakteristiska ränderna som är vanliga för tiden.
/ Amica och Maria

Foto Ola Myrin, SHM

At the Historical Museum in Stockholm, work is right now being done to improve and share information about the approximately 1000 medieval archaeological textiles that the museum manages. This means that new photos are being taken and the fragments will be analyzed and categorized into visual groups, that will make it easier to talk about different textile qualities. Photo and analyzed result will then be uploaded into the museum’s database and become searchable. However, it will take some time before it is published because the museum is changing the system for the database. But we can’t wait and will start posting nice photos of the finds here on our blog.

The material currently under review comes from archeological excavations made mainly in the 1970s in the city centers of different cities in Sweden. A part of the collection that is found at the museum comes from Enköping, from the quarter of Traktören, and the first textile presented today comes from there.

The archaeological medieval textile fragments from our cities can be divided into five groups
1 – lost items, for an exempel, a mitten
2 – left overs from manufacture
3 -fragments from worn out garments
4 – residue of coarser packaging textile
5 – threads, felted wool or loose wool

Of the approximately 1,000 fragments found in the museum a very small part belongs to group 1.

The fragment is a 2/1 twill, wool. The fragment is very worn, so it probably comes from a worn out garment or an interior textile, like as a cushion. Today the textile is light brown and no visible color is shown. But if you look at the top right in the picture you see some loose threads. This indicates that this textile have had a woven stripe, woven in plain weave/ extended tabby. The dating is “medieval”. We place this fabric in the 14th century as it has the characteristic stripes that are commonplace at the time.

The fabric is what we would describe as an medium quality suitable for an example kirtles and hoods.
/ Amica and Maria

42/2018- Close up Birka

We would like to wish you all a happy weekend with some close up pictures of some finds from the excavation from Birka, Björkö, Sweden.

The finds from Birka are world famous. Not only the amazing metal finds with brooches, swords and a lot of bling. But also for some breathtaking tablet woven bands with brocade in both silver and gold. Not to mention the super cool posaments finds attached to hats and other items.

Today we focus on the lovely small pieces of decorative wool textiles. And a lovely deer in gold thread. The first two pictures are both pieces of woven tapestry, the third picture is a brocaded tabby/type “krabbasnår”  and the fourth is the weird deer.

Dating 850- 1000 AD.
We have now over 11.000 followers on our Facebook page and we are super happy that you follow the page and that you share and comment on the posts we add. You all are very precious to us <3

Hugs,
Amica and Maria

 

40/ 2018- The hard core metal

As some of you may already know, Amica Sundström  from Historical Textiles, works at the Swedish History Museum as textile curator. Today, together with Thomas Neijman, she held a guided  tour for a group of people with a special interest for medieval metal works. The armourerAlbert Collins, Via Armoari, celebrates 20 years as a professional armourer this weekend and he has a big party to celebrate this. Plenty of people have travel to Stockholm just for this occasion. The group that came to the museum took the chance to visit the special tour today when in the neighborhood.

Albert also, as many of you may already know, just had a kickstarter campaign get help with the funding, in order to reintroduce armourer as a official craft in Sweden. The last master armourer we had in Sweden was during the late 18th century. After the last master died the craft was official gone.

Albert’s kickstarter campaign has been fully funded and it is incredibly pleasing that it will once again be possible to reintroduce this craft to the Swedish craft council.

We are incredibly happy about this and therefore deviate from our usual theme of displaying textiles. We will this weekend display a mix of photo on various types of medieval (and some older) metal items that are parts of the collections of the Swedish History Museum.

Hope you can forgive this textile free Friday. <3
ps. There are of course some pictures of things that are related to textiles such as scissors, pins etc.

Happy weekend!
Amica and Maria

35/ 2018- Top of a sudarium

” The sudarium or, a cloth of fine quality to wipe away perspiration, or an ornamental handkerchief which was seldom put into actual use, but was generally carried in the hand as an ornament as was commonly done by people of rank in ordinary life, now formalized as a vestment, in liturgical use from the 12th century reserved for the bishop; the subcinctorium is a related ornamental vestment reserved for the pope.”
– Wikipedia

We would like to wish you all a happy weekend with a historical textile!
This week we show the top of a sudarium.  A sudarium is the cloth a bishop holds in his hand to protect the staff from sweat and dirt.

This sudarium top is in the collections of Historiska museet, Stockholm, Sweden. Originally it was placed on the staff of Thomas Beckert, the sculpture in the museum, originally from Skepptuna church – not the saint! It’s made out of fine linen with a leather backside ( now gone) and have a lovely woven silk band attached to it. Most likely woven in a rigid heddle.

The fragment dates to 1350-1500

Happy weekend!
/ Amica and Maria

 

29/2018- The display is everything

We would like to wish you all a very late happy weekend with some reconstruction pictures.

We have just visited Kalmar castle and Roskilde cathedral.

Both places have in their exhibitions a reconstruction of “Queen Margareta’s golden gown”. Roskilde had the original until the 30year war ( in the 17th century) when the Swedes was passing the cathedral on the way home from the war, and just stole the kirtel. Today the original can been seen in Uppsala cathedral.

The kirtel in Kalmar is a printed silk fabric. The fabric is very thin and light.

The one in Roskilde is a reconstruction made by Borås textile University in 1993. That means silk warp and gilded silver thread and silk in the weft. That fabric is very stiff and have more in common with tin foil then a smooth silk.

Here are the different displays:

Kalmar

Roskilde

We are very happy to show how different fabrics drapes. When made out of the same pattern it’s very obvious.

Medieval gold brocade does not really drapes, it’s more like wearing a traffic cone…

Happy weekend ( well…. Tuesday 😉 )

/ Amica and Maria

27/ 2018- A Swedish point

We would like to wish you all a happy weekend with a historical textile related artifact!
This week we show you a lace end, a point.
We would also like to celebrate that we have now over 10400 followers on Facebook <3

The lace end, the point,  is excavated from the nunnery of Gudhem, Västergötland, Sweden. Dating 1100-1500 AD. The nunnery was closed 1529 AD. We guess that the item might comes from the 14-15th century.

It’s a simple piece of twisted brass or copper wire, leaving an opening for the lace thread. The cut end have been hammered so that the metal wires are smooth and form a point. There is no traces left of textile on this particular piece. But there are other twist point’s that still have a textile cord attached to it, so we are certain that this kind of twist points were used as lace points. Approx. size 4cm.

This piece can be found in the collections of Historiska museet in Stockholm, Sweden. Here is a link to the find in the database ( no picture).

Happy weekend!
/ Amica and Maria

ps. sorry for the crappy picture- we are gong to give you more pictures of twist points in the future.

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25/2018- From Herjolfsnes, Greenland

We would like to wish you all a happy weekend with a historical textile!
It’s late and we have been working hard in the dye pots all day long. But to keep our promise, to give you nice pictures once a week, we just post pictures of a celebrity everyone already know.

From the exhibition at National museum in Copenhagen, Denmark. A children’s kirtle made in wool from Herjolfsnes on Greenland.
Check out the lovely 2/2 twill and the nice front gore. The kirtle is dated to late 14th century ( please tell us if we are wrong- can’t find the book at this hour…) !

Happy weekend!
/ Amica and Maria

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23/ 2018- The weekend picture – Relic box from Vadstena

We would like to wish you all a happy weekend with a  historical textile.

This week we focus on a relic box from Vadstena abbey church,  Östergötland, Sweden.
The abbey was founded in 1346 by Saint Bridget with the assistance of King Magnus IV of Sweden and his Queen Blanche of Namur, who made a will donating ten farms, including that of Vadstena in Dal Hundred, Östergötland, to the abbey founded by Bridget.

The relic box is dated to mid 15th century and it was made by the nuns at the abbey. The surface is covered in silk embroidery with additional details in gold. The inscription on the box says: stud capud est onnis sancti martiris qui suit de co(n) soriis sancti gereonis martiris
The box have got a pale red linen lining. The box and the foot is made out of wood.

The relic box can be found in the collections of Statens Historiska museum in Sweden.
Here is the link to the object in the database.

Happy weekend!
/ Amica and Maria

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22/2018 – The weekend picture’s- New photos

We would like to wish you all a happy weekend with  historical textile news.

This week we focus on the textile collection at Statens Historiska museum in Stockholm, Sweden. This is the working place of Amica Sundström, from Historical textiles, where she works as the textile curator.

Right now the museum are taking new photos of the textile collection. That means high resolution pictures of the textile collection that can be found online in the near future.

Happy weekend!
/ Amica and Maria

 

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