Today we go Royal with a linen collar with some amazing bobin laces. The owner was King Gustav II Adolf/ Gustavus Adolphus of Sweden, He reigned over Sweden between 1611-1632. He was shot and died the 6th of November 1632 in Lützen during the 30 year war.
The collar is made out of a very thin and evenly woven plain linen weave. The stitching is to die for!!! The bobin lace is also made out of linen thread, two plied.
Today the collar is in the collection of The Royal Armoury, Stockholm. / Amica & Maria Please cred if sharing photos.
Fulled fabrics. The fabrics during the Middle Ages were often fulled. When fabrics from that time is found in the ground, the majority of the nap is often gone. That means the fabrics that we find give a different surface then the fabric originally had. Also fabrics other than archaeological, may have lost a lot of its fulled surface. Here we can see some evidence of that.
The examples are both from gilded leather coverlets, where the gilded strip ( or a twisted linen strip) has fallen off and exposes a fabric that has significantly more nap than the rest of the fabric. Both fabrics are dated to 15th or 16th century.
Today we would like to raise the idea of a perfect result. That seems to be a fairly modern approach. We see repeatedly during our analyses that the perfect result is a non existing thing during the Middle Ages. This embroidery from Ärentuna is a good example of that.
Check out the blue square with the yellow pattern in. During the sewing someone ran out of yellow yarn. And continued with a light orange yarn instead. That someone, was also a bit unfocused and turned one of the wings of the pattern upside down.
Misstakes happens all the time when people are doing crafts. But during the Middle Ages people seemed less interested in fixing them. We find this very heartwarming and would like to strike a blow for not correcting things too often. It’s a bit like live TV. Don’t mention it, then the audience will notice it, just move on and everything will be just fine.
The embroidery is dated 14-15th century. / Amica & Maria Please cred us if sharing photos. Click on the photo to enlage
Today we return to the Grödinge double weave. But today we focus on the animals of the middle section. We got lions, eagles and the animal combined by the two, griffins. At first sight all animals looks the same, but at a closer look, all the animals have some small individual parts. That menas that the pattern have been picked by hand during the weaving.
The weave is made out of white and dark blue wool and is dated to the 15th century.
Today the double weave can be found in the collections of The Swedish History Museum. / Amica & Maria Please cred us if sharing photos. Click on the photo to enlage
Down. A material that we know was used a lot during the Middle Ages. Not very many down filled items are still around. But luckily we have a few cushions in Sweden, still filled with down. Or at least what we believe is down. They have not been opened… yet.
The weight and the fluffiness feels like down. And sometimes even a small down find it’s way out though the cushion fabric. As in this case with the lovely gilded leather embroidery cushion from Aspö church.
Dated to late 15th century. Possibly also early 16th century. Now in the collections of The Swedish History museum.
Today’s post is a very basic but very important item, a band or a ribbon. This small band in linen have served it’s owner well. Today it’s very little of it left. Woven in single spun linen thread. Most likely in a rigid heddle. Just 8 mm wide.
It’s a small find from the Secret Italian collection. Dated 1470-1530
When we analyse old textiles we use simple equipment. Phones, a clip on magnifier, glass magnifier, measuring tape, ruler and in special cases we use a USB microscope. Here you can see the benefits of using a clip on magnifier. It’s a simple thing that you can buy at any IT shop that sells mouses or charger for phones.
This piece is a linen fragment from the so called The time capsule . You can find more finds related to it at our blog.
The linen fragment have got lovely decorations at the edge. We don’t know what it was before it became a fragment. A part of a veil? A towel? A table cloth? It you have any suggestions- please write them in the comments! / Amica & Maria
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