Advent calendar December 24th 2018

Today we in Sweden celebrates Christmas.
Our twenty fourth advent calendar post is a silk and gold thread embroidery. It’s made in the studio connected to the famous painter Albertus Pictor. Aka Albert Pärlstickare  ( bead/ pearl embroider).

The embroidery is a back shield and was originally attached to a cope from Maria church, Sigtuna, Sweden.

The shield is dated to mid- late 15th century.

Now in collections of Historiska museet, Sweden.

God jul!
/Amica and Maria
Photo: Historical Textiles

Advent calendar December 22th 2018

Our twenty-second advent calendar post is a detail from a gilded leather coverlet from Dalhem church, Småland, Sweden. This one is called Dalhem 2 since the church have got not only one but two coverlets connected to the church.

We would like you to look at the fabrics. The hard spun warp on the red fabric ( shows horizontal on the picture) and the thicker weft. And on the white fabric, that has got a z- spun warp and s-spun weft- giving a very dense look of the fabric. It gives sometimes a visual look of knitting when seen from the diagonal.

They piece is dated to late 15th early 16th century. 

Now in collections of Historiska museet, Sweden.
/ Amica and Maria
Photo: Historical Textiles 

Dalhem 2

Advent calendar December 20th 2018

Our twentieth advent calendar post is a small fragment of linen. Also today we show a quite unusual piece. It is a dark red linen fabric from Italy.
The fragment have got a small seam but we can’t say what it use to be. We know from sources that dyed linen did occur during the late medieval period in Italy. But it’s not the dye that we want you to focus on today.

We would like you to look at the seam. Check out the tiny back stitches. The scale above show millimeters. The stitches are less than 1 mm each.

They fragment is dated to late 15th early 16th century. 

Now part of the secret Italian collection.
/ Amica and Maria
Photo: Historical Textiles 

Tiny stitches

Advent calendar December 19th 2018

Our nineteenth advent calendar post is a small fragment of a wool fabric item. The fabric is something quite unusual. The warp and the weft have very different colours, warp lighter and weft darker. This is not something common, at all. The fabric have gone brown after years in the ground, but even before it must have been a clear visual difference of the warp and the weft. It’s woven in 2/2 twill. The fragment also have some seams. It was clearly sewn into something before it ended up in the ground in the city of Enköping, Västmanland, Sweden. 

They fragment is dated to 13-15th century. 

Now in collections of Historiska museet, Sweden.
/ Amica and Maria
Photo: Historical Textiles 

Advent calendar December 16th 2018

Our sixteenth advent calendar post is a selection of spindle whorls. They all comes from various archeological excavations from different Swedish cities. The whorls are made out of clay, lead, and bone. 

The whorls have different shapes and weighs differently. 

They whorls are dated 13-16th century. 

Now in collections of Historiska museet, Sweden.
/ Amica and Maria
Photo: Historical Textiles

Advent calendar December 15th 2018

Our fifteen advent calendar post is, once agin not a textile but a textile tool, a rigid heddle is from Västkinde, Gotland, Sweden. It’s made out of elk horn.

It is decorated on both sides. The size is H. 4,7 cm , W. 4,5 cm.

The rigid heddle is dated to 1350- 1490 AD.

Now in collections of Historiska museet, Sweden.
/ Amica and Maria
Photo: Historical Textiles

Advent calendar December 10th 2018

Our tenth advent calendar post is a sudarium from an unknown Swedish church. The top of the sudarium is made from a black velvet  fabric, and is covered with gold spangles, pearls and gold thread embroideries.  Colourful silk bands are attached around the top. 

Possibly a work by the Birtgittin nuns from Vadstena. 

   

The sudarium is dated to 15th century. 

Now in collections of Historiska museet, Sweden.
/ Amica and Maria
Photo: Historical Textiles

Advent calendar December 9th 2018

Our ninth advent calendar post is a mitre from Linköping cathedral, Sweden. The mitre is covered with embroidery and enamelled plates with different saint on them. But the mitre is also covered with small pearls. They are really small. Some are not more then 2,5 mm in diameter. 

Over time a lot of embroideries, from this period of time, have over time lost the majority of their pearls. But this lovely mitre have still got some left.   

The mitre is dated to 1350- 1490 AD. 

Now in collections of Historiska museet, Sweden.
/ Amica and Maria
Photo: Historical Textiles

Advent calendar December 8th 2018

Our eight advent calendar post is an embroidery from Fogdö church, Sweden. Made in long armed cross stitch. Wool on linen. But today we focus on the colours. Or rather the lack of colours. Some dyes fade quicker then others. The pinkish purple colour on this embroidery have faded a lot. But on the backside one can get a feel for the original colour. 

We don’t know what kind of pigment that was used to dye this pinkish purple colour. 

The embroidery is dated late 15th century. 

Now in collections of Historiska museet, Sweden.
/ Amica and Maria
Photo: Historical Textiles

Frontside- where the thread have broken, one can see that the thread sticking out use to be pinkish. 
Backside