A printed chasuble from Husaby church, Sweden

We would like to wish you all a happy weekend with a very rare object.
A block printed chasuble in linen from Husaby church, Västergötland, Sweden. Dated early 15th century.
The chasuble is in a remarkable condition considering it’s age. And it has kept it original medieval shape and have not been remade in any matter.

The chasuble consists of six different pieces sewn together and then printed on top of seams and everything. The fabric is woven in two shaft/ plain weave, and is a fairly even weave with high class spun threads. No lumps on the threads!

Originally it was printed with black paint, but it also show signs of being painted with a red, yellow and green paint on some places. The green paint have eaten the fabric and today the fabric is broken where it was painted.

The pattern bring to mind 14th century Italian silk weaves and it’s very easy to understand where the inspiration came from.

The print believes to be either Swedish or German. The print size is 44 x 15 cm.

Today the chasuble is to be found in the collections of The Swedish History Museum.

/ Amica and Maria

Photos by Historical Textiles and Historiska
Please use CC-BY if reposting.

Advent calendar December 20th 2018

Our twentieth advent calendar post is a small fragment of linen. Also today we show a quite unusual piece. It is a dark red linen fabric from Italy.
The fragment have got a small seam but we can’t say what it use to be. We know from sources that dyed linen did occur during the late medieval period in Italy. But it’s not the dye that we want you to focus on today.

We would like you to look at the seam. Check out the tiny back stitches. The scale above show millimeters. The stitches are less than 1 mm each.

They fragment is dated to late 15th early 16th century. 

Now part of the secret Italian collection.
/ Amica and Maria
Photo: Historical Textiles 

Tiny stitches

29/2018- The display is everything

We would like to wish you all a very late happy weekend with some reconstruction pictures.

We have just visited Kalmar castle and Roskilde cathedral.

Both places have in their exhibitions a reconstruction of “Queen Margareta’s golden gown”. Roskilde had the original until the 30year war ( in the 17th century) when the Swedes was passing the cathedral on the way home from the war, and just stole the kirtel. Today the original can been seen in Uppsala cathedral.

The kirtel in Kalmar is a printed silk fabric. The fabric is very thin and light.

The one in Roskilde is a reconstruction made by Borås textile University in 1993. That means silk warp and gilded silver thread and silk in the weft. That fabric is very stiff and have more in common with tin foil then a smooth silk.

Here are the different displays:

Kalmar

Roskilde

We are very happy to show how different fabrics drapes. When made out of the same pattern it’s very obvious.

Medieval gold brocade does not really drapes, it’s more like wearing a traffic cone…

Happy weekend ( well…. Tuesday 😉 )

/ Amica and Maria

18/ 2018- The weekend picture’s

We would like to wish you all a happy weekend with a  historical textile.

This week we focus on a chasuble in silk from Ösmo church, Södermanland, Sweden. The church is whose oldest parts are from the 1100s, is mostly famous for it’s paintings  made by Albertus Pictor.
The fabric is a silk damask in a pomegranate pattern, from Italy. Now pale red/ pinkish.
It’s decorated with two different tablet woven bands.  The band that is attached to the back of chasuble, in the shape of a cross,  is woven in silk with gold thread in the brocading weft. Green and blue silk is still visible on that band. The band that is attached around the neck line is possibly made from linen and have a gold thread in the brocading weft. We find is quite amusing that the neck band is not at all centered in the front.

The shape of the chasuble have been changed and some material have been cut off. The item shows some interesting piecing and give us an idea that the fabric was once very valuable. There are no traces of pattern matching. The seams shows that the silk fabric was sewn together with back stitches.  One can see the characteristic V-shaped stitches through the gap in between the pieces.
The linen lining is very impressive with it’s dark blue colour. Most likely dyed with woad.

The chasuble can be found in the collections of Statens Historiska museum in Sweden.
Here is the link to the object in the database. The chasuble is dated to mid -to late 15th century.

Happy weekend!
/ Amica and Maria

All images subject to CC BY SA. Photographer: Historical Textiles, specified at sharing of images. Make sure to do the same with the pictures from Historiska

Sytråd från Sigtuna/ Sewing thread from Sigtuna

Scrol down for English 

Vi får ofta frågor om vilken tråd man sytt sina kläder med under olika historiska perioder. Det finns inget enkelt svar eftersom det statistiska underlaget väldigt ofta är bristfälligt. Väldigt ofta saknas sömmar eller sytrådar i arkeologiska fynd. Men när vi ser sytråd i de textilier vi analyserat så blir vi givetvis väldigt glada och lägger till den informationen i vår samlade databas av sömmar och stygn.

Cellulosa bryts ner av fukt och klarar sig därför väldigt dåligt i jorden. Det är därför ganska ovanligt att hitta linne eller lintråd bland de arkeologiska fynden. Det finns dock både linne och lintråd i ett flertal textilier som bevarats ovan jord.
Ull bryts inte ner lika snabbt som cellulosa och därför är bevarandegraden högre för ull. Jordfunna textiler är inte representativa för de sorters textilier som har används under den aktuella tidsperioden på platsen.

Nedan ser vi en sytråd i ett av de textila fynden från Sigtuna. Sytråden är spunnen av ull. Detta fynd är daterat till första halvan av 1000-talet. Tråden är tvåtrådig och har en ganska hög snodd. Tråden är också grövre än tråden i väven på tyget.
Vad textilen har varit vet vi ännu inte men vi kommer att analysera denna närmare längre fram.
/ Amica och Maria

English: 
We often get questions about which sewing thread that have been used to sew clothes with during different historical periods. There is no easy answer to that, because the data is very often insufficient and can’t provide a good statistic basis. Very often there are no seams or sewing threads in archeological finds. But when we see the sewing thread in the textiles we analyzed, we are of course very happy and add the information in our overall database of stitches and sewing thread

Cellulose is degraded by moisture and survives therefore very poorly in the soil. It is quite rare to find linen or linen thread among the archaeological finds. However, there are both linen and linen sewing thread in a number of textiles that have been preserved above ground.
Wool does not decompose as quickly as cellulose and therefore  is the retention rate higher for wool. Archelolgical textiles are not 100% representative for the kinds of textiles that have been used during the period in question on the spot.

Above we see a sewing thread in one of the textile finds from Sigtuna, Sweden. The sewing thread is spun from wool. This find is dated to the frist or second quater of the 11th century. The thread is two-plyed and has a fairly high twist. The thread is also thicker than the thread in the woven fabric.
What the textile has been, we do not know yet, but we will analyze this further.
/ Amica and Maria

Advent calendar 21 December 2017

 

Our twenty-first calendar post is a row of buttonholes in silk. From the Wasa ship, Sweden.

Here we can see a close up on the buttonholes. The buttonholes are sewn in silk thread. The fabric where they were sewn on is gone, and only the buttonholes are remaining of this item.

This piece is dated to 10 August 1628, the same day as the warship Wasa sank.

Now in collections of Vasamuseet, Sweden

SparaSpara

Advent calendar 12 December 2017

Our twelfth calendar post is a cocktail of things. It’s a relief velvet, a selvage of the velvet, a woven band and a embroidery in gold thread. The object is a cope from Vallentuna, Sweden

The majority of the materials are in silk. The embroidery seems be made on linen or hemp fabric.

The cope dates  1450- 1500 AD.

Now in collections of Historiska museet, Sweden

SparaSpara

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Advent calendar 2 December 2017

Our second calendar post is an embroidery. This one is also from an unknown Swedish church.
Here we can see a close up on the double running stitch in blue and red silk, forming 
 a geometrical pattern, on the linen background.
The embroidery is dated late 15th century- early 16th century.
Now in collections of Historiska museet, Sweden.

SparaSpara