46/2018- A good quality wool fabric from Uppsala

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Denna textil är hittad vid utgrävningarna i kvarteret Rådhuset i Uppsala. Textilien är daterad till 1200-1500. Idag är den en del av samlingarna från Historiska Museet.

Fragmentet är ett ylletyg, vävt i  2/2 kypert och är av en relativt fin kvalité, även om den i dag är mycket tunnsliten. Varptråden är tunn och jämn, den är Z-spunnen med många snoddvarv per cm. Inslaget är lite tjockare än varpen. Inslaget är S- spunnet och har inte heller lika många snoddvarv per cm, detta medför att inslaget är lösare och fyller ut mer än vad varpen gör, i tyget. Därför är det också färre inslag per cm än det är med antalet varptrådar per cm. Att förhållandet mellan inslag och varp är så här pass olika är mycket vanligt under medeltiden.

Tittar man noga längs kanterna finns det på sina håll tydliga lämningar av tidigare stygn. Dessa stygn syns idag som ett antal runda små hål, och de är placerade på rad efter varandra. Jämnt fördelade.

Fragmentet räknar vi till grupp 3 – fragment av utslitna klädesplagg. Det skulle mycket väl ha kunnat varit ett klädesplagg ursprungligen. Vilket plagg tror du att det kan ha varit en del av?

Trevlig helg,
Amica och Maria


Photo: Ola Myrin, SHM

This textile fragment was found at the excavations at Rådhuset (City Hall) in Uppsala. The textile is dated to 1200-1500. Today it is part of the collections at The Swedish History Museum.

The fragment is a woolen fabric, woven in 2/2 twill and of a relatively fine quality, although today it is very worn and thin. The warp threads are thin and even, they are Z-spun with a high twist per cm. The weft is a bit thicker than the warp. The warp is S-spun and does not have as many twists per cm, which means that the warp is looser and fills out the fabric more than the warp does. Therefore, there are also fewer weft threads per cm than warp threads per cm. This kind of sett is very common during the Middle Ages.

Looking closely along the edges, remains of previous stitches are plainly visible. These stitches can be seen today as a number of small round holes, evenly spaced in a row. We classify the fragment as group 3 – fragments from worn-out garments. It could very well have been a garment originally.
What do you think it may have been a part of?

Happy weekend!
Amica and Maria

40/ 2018- The hard core metal

As some of you may already know, Amica Sundström  from Historical Textiles, works at the Swedish History Museum as textile curator. Today, together with Thomas Neijman, she held a guided  tour for a group of people with a special interest for medieval metal works. The armourerAlbert Collins, Via Armoari, celebrates 20 years as a professional armourer this weekend and he has a big party to celebrate this. Plenty of people have travel to Stockholm just for this occasion. The group that came to the museum took the chance to visit the special tour today when in the neighborhood.

Albert also, as many of you may already know, just had a kickstarter campaign get help with the funding, in order to reintroduce armourer as a official craft in Sweden. The last master armourer we had in Sweden was during the late 18th century. After the last master died the craft was official gone.

Albert’s kickstarter campaign has been fully funded and it is incredibly pleasing that it will once again be possible to reintroduce this craft to the Swedish craft council.

We are incredibly happy about this and therefore deviate from our usual theme of displaying textiles. We will this weekend display a mix of photo on various types of medieval (and some older) metal items that are parts of the collections of the Swedish History Museum.

Hope you can forgive this textile free Friday. <3
ps. There are of course some pictures of things that are related to textiles such as scissors, pins etc.

Happy weekend!
Amica and Maria

26/ 2018 – Eric of Pomerania’s Belt

We would like to wish you all a happy weekend with a historical textile!
This week we focus on another celebrity from Denmark, from the exhibition at National museum in Copenhagen. The belt of Eric of Pomerania.
We would also like to celebrate that we have now over 10300 followers on Facebook 😀

The belt is tablet woven in silk and gilded silver. Originally the silk was very colourful in red, blue and green. The gold have fallen off but on some places one can see traces of it. The belt is dated to: girdle and belt mounts- early 13th – early 14th century.
Buckle and strap end- mid-15th century (Fingerlin 1971; Nørlund 1937)

A full analysis have been done by Viktoria Holmqvist and her article is published in: North European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles X Series: Ancient Textiles Series Volume: 5, Copyright Date: 2010, Published by: Oxbow Books
Thank you Viktoria for an amazing job <3

Happy weekend!
/ Amica and Maria

 

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21/ 2018 The weekend picture’s- Skog wallhanging

We would like to wish you all a happy weekend with a  historical textile.

This week we focus on a wallhanging from Skog church, Hälsingland, Sweden.
The church was built 1805 and the wallhanging was found in 1912 in the church. The wallhanging could have been an interior of an older church in either the neigborhood or from the old church in Skog.

Both the white warp and the weft is in linen. All the colored details are made in wool yarn. Woven with soumac weft. It’s dyed in red, blue, yellow and green. Madder, woad and reseda are the pigments that most likely have been used.

The wallhanging can be found in the collections of Statens Historiska museum in Sweden.
Here is the link to the object in the database. The wallhanging  is dated to 13th century.

Happy weekend!
/ Amica and Maria

All images subject to CC BY SA. Photographer: Historical Textiles, specified at sharing of images. Make sure to do the same with the pictures from Historiska

15/2018 The weekend picture

We would like to wish you all a happy weekend with a historical textile.

This week we focus on a lovely silk embroidery from England. It’s a high class work aka Opus Anglicanum. The embroidery comes from Skå church and is dated  to
1250- 1350 AD. Now in the collections of Statens Historiska museum in Sweden.

Silk on linen. Here we can see a close up on a table cloth. Table cloths of the time were often depicted as woven in goose eye/ twill variation.

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Advent calendar 24 December 2017

Our twenty-fourth calendar post is a dagged edge. The edge belongs to a larger piece and that one comes from a garment. From the county of Södermanland, Sweden.

Here we can see a close up on the cut edge. The wool fabric brownish- reddish.

This piece is undated. We put it in the time frame of 13th- 14th century.

Now in collections of Historiska museet, Sweden

Advent calendar 22 December 2017

Our twenty-second calendar post is a tablet woven band. Attached to a cloak. From Leksand church, Sweden.

Here we can see a close up on the tablet woven band. The band is woven in wool thread. The weft is missing. The cloak fabric is also made in wool.

This piece is dated to 13th century.

Now in collections of Historiska museet, Sweden

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Advent calendar 19 December 2017

Our  nineteenth calendar post is a wool fabric. From Uppsala, Sweden.

Here we can see a the fabric. It’s a 2/2 twill. With one thread system spun in Z and the other thread system spun in S.

The fabric dates to 1100-1500 AD.

Now in collections of Historiska museet, Sweden

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Advent calendar 17 December 2017 

 

Our seventeenth calendar post is an embroidery. From Skå church, Sweden. It’s an Opus Anglicanum work, from England.

Here we can see a close up on the embroidery. Silk and gold on linen. The silk is sewn in split stitch. The embroidery is of the highest class.

The item dates to 1250- 1350 AD. Most likely 1330-1350.

Now in collections of Historiska museet, Sweden

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Advent calendar 15 December 2017

Our fifteenth calendar post is a mended shirt. From Forsby church, Sweden.

Here we can see a close up on the patch. The patch is sewn on to the outside of the shirt. Both the patch and the shirt are made in linen.

The item dates to 1250- 1350 AD.

Now in collections of Historiska museet, Sweden

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