This year we presented our paper at Nest XIV. “Colours in medieval textiles versus archeological textiles from Swedish cities” was the title of our abstract. Nest XIV was supposed to take place in Oulo in Finland but was first postponed a couple of times and then became a digital version on Zoom. All participants sent in their paper presentation in advance and only the session discussion was a live talk. A lot of interesting papers were presented! We can’t wait for the publication!!!
We are so happy that we finally can share some of our research that we have been working on the last couple of years, it has taken long due to the pandemic… But finally we can share the amazing colors and fine fabrics from the medieval seal bags from Riksarkivet / National archive
Today we would like to raise the idea of a perfect result. That seems to be a fairly modern approach. We see repeatedly during our analyses that the perfect result is a non existing thing during the Middle Ages. This embroidery from Ärentuna is a good example of that.
Check out the blue square with the yellow pattern in. During the sewing someone ran out of yellow yarn. And continued with a light orange yarn instead. That someone, was also a bit unfocused and turned one of the wings of the pattern upside down.
Misstakes happens all the time when people are doing crafts. But during the Middle Ages people seemed less interested in fixing them. We find this very heartwarming and would like to strike a blow for not correcting things too often. It’s a bit like live TV. Don’t mention it, then the audience will notice it, just move on and everything will be just fine.
The embroidery is dated 14-15th century. / Amica & Maria Please cred us if sharing photos. Click on the photo to enlage
Today we give you a close up on an embroidery that have something that is pretty unusual. Glass beads and something that could possibly be coral pearls.
Pretty often old embroideries have been stripped of their pearls and beads. So it’s rare to have an embroidery with some left.
The beads and pearls are threaded on a silk or linen thread and then the thread have been sewn down in between every bead. The corals are threaded on a red silk and the glass beads on a blue silk or linen thread.
The embroidery is dated to 15th century. And it’s a mitre from Linköping cathedral, Sweden. The mitre is covered with embroidery and enamelled plates with different saint on them. But the mitre is also covered with small pearls.
The mitre is dated to 1350- 1490 AD.
Now in collections of Historiska museet, Sweden. / Amica and Maria Please cred us if sharing photo.
We stay in Gent state archives. Today we have have another important document. This one dated 1385. The silk ribbons connected to the seals are all green. Some are loop braided and some a woven round, most likely in a rigid heddle.
/ Amica & Maria If sharing photos: please cred us. Click on the pics to enlarge
Today we take a turn to the State Archive in Gent. It’s a document, with lovely green silk ribbons connected to the document. It’s rare to have exact dating on historical textiles and here we have a document dated to one single day. That is so awesome!!! 3 December 1339
Since we don’t know what the document was about we asked a friend that translated the museum text for us. Here is a summary:
“This “oorkonde” is about an alliance between Vlaanderen (Flanders) en Brabant to secure the trade of wool (I suppose from England) Jacob encouraged other duchess and dukes to do the same. So basically an other act in the 100 year war between France en England. Jacob is murdered and has a statue on the Friday market in Gent. A “oorkonde” is an official document normally with seals on it. They should be at the bottom of the document attached to a ribbon. From 1600 the seals made way for autographs or signatures The “lakennijverheid” is a trade of cloth makers and of huge economical interest in Gent (whole of Flanders really)”
An important document with costly silk. Woven in plain weave. Possibly in a rigid heddle. / Amica & Maria If sharing photos: please cred us. Click on the pics to enlarge
A few weeks ago, “Historical Costume – inside and out: The women’s clothing in Northern Europe 1360-1415” was released , Maria Neijman is one of the two authors and as you may know, she is also 50% of Historical Textiles.
What is the book about? As the title indicates, it is a book that overall shows how women in the Northern parts of Europe between the period 1360-1415 could dress. The book contains principle sketches of patterns, stitch descriptions and much, much more.
In early 2021, the book will be published translated into English. For those of you who are interested in buying the book, can already now pre-order your copy.
The book cost 175SEK. Shipping to Europe for a book costs 130 SEK. Australia and the USA cost 104SEK. Of course traceable! Payment either via Paypal or bank transfer.
Book your book by emailing Maria at neijman(a)icloud.com Do not forget to write your full address. For those of you who want to buy the book in Swedish, you can email already now!
Together with a group of dedicated people we have recreated five large embroideries. Four of the embroideries are large coverlets, and two are large cushions. All originals, except Östra Stenby, are to be found at the museum. Since they are too fragile to be exhibited in a too well-lit room, they are not on display right now.
Two of the coverlets, Skepptuna and Dalhem 1, have been exhibited before at the museum, but three new pieces are on view for the first time. We proudly present reconstructions of Skokloster 2, Dalhem 2 and Östra Stenby. All fabrics are off course plant dyed, sewn by hand and decorated with gilt leather strips and some with white wool fabric. The new interpretations of how to use the old technique to create new art in our modern times, have been made by the group Skapande broderi Stockholm.
Here are some pictures from the opening. Thank you Göran Wingstrand for the photos. The exhibition will be on show until 14th of February 2021.
We would like to thank everyone that have been sewing and helping out with the project to make this happen. Without you this wouldn’t have been possible. <3
Agnes Bohman Boyle Aina Hagman Anders Klintholm Lilliehöök Anna Malmborg Anna Odlinge Anna Sönsteby Lilliehöök Barbro Bornsäter Catharina Drakmården Catrin Karlsson Elina Sojonen Elin Andersson Elin Jantze Emil Lagerquist Emma Fryksmark Ester Spetz Eva Eriksson Fia Makalös Lindblom Hannah Ström Ida Berg Ingela Wahlberg Justine Arnot Kerstin Petersson Khelan Butén Lena Dahrén Lia de Thornegge Linnea Vennström Magdalena Fick Malin Ekberg Maria Franzon Mervi Pasanen Sofia Berg Thérèse Pettersson Rasmus Rasmusen René Guthof Tove Kluge Ulla-Mari Uusitalo Ulrika Mårtensson Vea Collins Ylva Nellmar
Thank you all!
Project leaders: Amica Sundström and Maria Neijman
Today we travel to the north of Sweden. All the way up to Resele church in Ångermanland. The medieval church was demolished 1841 when the new church was built. Today’s textile is an antependium from the old church.
It’s a wool weave and it has got one warp system and two weft systems. The birds are a common motif during the later part of the Middle ages and the antependium is dated 1350-1500, it is dated by style.
The textile is part of the collection at Historiska Museet in Sweden. / Amica and Maria
Photos: Historical Textiles- pease cred us if sharing
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