Advent calendar 19 December 2017

Our  nineteenth calendar post is a wool fabric. From Uppsala, Sweden.

Here we can see a the fabric. It’s a 2/2 twill. With one thread system spun in Z and the other thread system spun in S.

The fabric dates to 1100-1500 AD.

Now in collections of Historiska museet, Sweden

SparaSpara

Advent calendar 17 December 2017 

 

Our seventeenth calendar post is an embroidery. From Skå church, Sweden. It’s an Opus Anglicanum work, from England.

Here we can see a close up on the embroidery. Silk and gold on linen. The silk is sewn in split stitch. The embroidery is of the highest class.

The item dates to 1250- 1350 AD. Most likely 1330-1350.

Now in collections of Historiska museet, Sweden

SparaSpara

Advent calendar 15 December 2017

Our fifteenth calendar post is a mended shirt. From Forsby church, Sweden.

Here we can see a close up on the patch. The patch is sewn on to the outside of the shirt. Both the patch and the shirt are made in linen.

The item dates to 1250- 1350 AD.

Now in collections of Historiska museet, Sweden

SparaSpara

5000 followers on Facebook

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När vi startade vår Facebooksida trodde vi aldrig att vi skulle få så många följare. Vi har precis passerat 5000 följare och vi måste fira med några häftiga historiska textilier.

Vi presenterar vår favoritdel på textiler- stadkanter. När du hittar dessa på ett gammalt tyg, så ger de väldigt viktig information om det tyget.
De talar om var som är varp och vad som är inslag. Detta är grunden i all vävning!

Därför delar vi med oss av en samling olika stadkanter. Hoppas att du gillar dom lika mycket som vi gör. Och tack för att du följer oss <3

English
When we started our Facebook page we had no idea that we would get som many followers. We have just passed 5000 and we must celebrate with some awesome historical textiles.

We present to you out favorite part of textiles- selvages. When you find them in an old fabric,
they give really important information about that fabric.

They tell us what thread is warp and what is weft. The basic of all weaving! 

We therefor present to you a variation of selvages. Hope you like them as much as we do! And thank you for following us <3
/Amica and Maria

All pictures Historical Textiles. CC-By
If sharing please give us cred for the pictures. Thank you!

Lödöse ID A8 randigt ylletyg/ Lödöse ID A8 striped wool fabric

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Lödöse ID A8
Ullvävnad i tuskaft, nu brun i färgen, med ripsränder uppbyggd i fyra delar av tre olika färger.

Storlek: 23x 11 cm
Varp: Z-spunnen tråd, tunn, 8-9 tr/cm
Inslag: S-spunnen, något tjockare än inslaget, 7-8 tr/cm

Randen
Randen är uppbyggd av tre färger. Mörkt gulbrun, röd, gulbrun, samt mörkt gulbrun. Randen är relativt grov. Sammanlagt består den av 26 trådar som tillsammans blir 1,9 cm. Därefter kommer ett tuskaftsparti och en ny rand är invävd efter 6,2 cm.
6 tr mörk gulbrun
8 tr röd
6 tr gulbrun
6 tr mörk gulbrun

Kommentar
Fragmentet är något ruggat på den ena sidan. Fragmentet kommer ur de medeltida stadslagren i Lödöse. Det är inte närmre daterat än så, men en jämförelse med andra likartade fynd placerar tyget runt 1300-talet.

 

Lödöse ID A8
Wool weave in plain weave, now brown in color, with stripes woven in double tabby, buildup in four parts of three different colours.

Size: 23x 11 cm
Warp: Z-spun thread, thin, 8-9 tr / cm
Weft: S-spun, slightly thicker than the weft, 7-8 tr / cm

The stripe
The stripe is made up of three colours. Dark yellowish brown, red, yellowish and dark yellowish brown. The stripe is relatively rough. In total it consists of 26 threads which together measures 1.9 cm. Thereafter a plain weave  for 6,2 cm before the new stripe starts again.
6 tr. dark yellowish brown
8 tr. red
6 tr. yellowish
6 tr. dark yellowish brown

Comment
The fragment is slightly fulled on one side. The fragment comes from the city material of the medieval town  Lödöse. It is not dated closer than that, but a comparison with other similar findings place the fabric around the 1300s.
/
Amica and Maria

Opus Anglicanum

Historical textiles meet textile historian Ingela Wahlberg at Victorian& Albert museum in London to see the exhibition Opus Anglicanum together.  Ingela have been guiding us around the exhibition all day and we are, and five hours later, still here.

Opus Anglicanum is a group of embroidery produced in England during the middle ages. Typical for the style is for liturgical use and shows biblical scenes, saints, bishops, scrolls, heraldic beasts and much more.  Materials used is floss silk, metal threads (both gold and silver), sometimes highlighting with tiny (!!) fresh water pearls. Embroidered on silk, compound twill, velvet or linen. If they are embroidered on linen the whole surface is covered with stitches. If they today show some linen, it is because the silk stitches have worn off. The most common techniques are underside couching and split stitch.

We will come back to the items exhibit here and give you a full report. The exhibition have got a photo restriction so we can’t share any photos from it.

The exhibition will be open until 5 February 2017 and we STRONGLY recommend you to go and se it. Last time some of these items were exhibit was in 1963 and before that 1905. So… it’s a once in a lifetime opportunity!

Ingela, Amica, Maria