Advent calendar December 12 2020

Today we post a picture of a small piece from an embroidery, silk on linen. It’s a sort of brick stitch that is called eye stitch in Swedish. We don’t know the English term.

It’s quite small and described as a part of an antependium.

Dated to 14-15th century. Now in the collection of the treasury in Uppsala cathedral.

/Amica and Maria

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Advent calendar December 11 2020

When we analyse old textiles we use simple equipment. Phones, a clip on magnifier, glass magnifier, measuring tape, ruler and in special cases we use a USB microscope.
Here you can see the benefits of using a clip on magnifier. It’s a simple thing that you can buy at any IT shop that sells mouses or charger for phones.

This piece is a linen fragment from the so called The time capsule . You can find more finds related to it at our blog.

The linen fragment have got lovely decorations at the edge.
We don’t know what it was before it became a fragment. A part of a veil? A towel? A table cloth?
It you have any suggestions- please write them in the comments!
/ Amica & Maria

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Advent calendar December 10 2020

Today we want to show you some spangles/ sequins and some mini-mini pearls.
It’s a top of a sudarium. The top is silk, metal thread, linen thread, spangles and pearls.
The linen is also embroidered with red and blue silk. The seams are covered with silk ribbons, woven in a rigid heddle.

Dated to 15th century.
Today in the collections of The Swedish History Museum.
/ Amica & Maria
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Advent calendar December 8 2020

Today we give you an old textile and it’s reconstructed younger cousin.
The Dalhem 1 coverlet, gilt leather and intarsia technique. Dated to 15th century.
Today in the collections od The Swedish History museum.

Reconstruction made by many people. Read more about the project here:
/ Amica & Maria
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Advent calendar December 7 2020

We stay in Gent state archives. Today we have have another important document. This one dated 1385. The silk ribbons connected to the seals are all green. Some are loop braided and some a woven round, most likely in a rigid heddle.

/ Amica & Maria
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Advent calendar December 6 2020

Today we take a turn to the State Archive in Gent. It’s a document, with lovely green silk ribbons connected to the document. It’s rare to have exact dating on historical textiles and here we have a document dated to one single day. That is so awesome!!!
3 December 1339

Since we don’t know what the document was about we asked a friend that translated the museum text for us. Here is a summary:

“This “oorkonde” is about an alliance between Vlaanderen (Flanders) en Brabant to secure the trade of wool (I suppose from England) Jacob encouraged other duchess and dukes to do the same. So basically an other act in the 100 year war between France en England. Jacob is murdered and has a statue on the Friday market in Gent. A “oorkonde” is an official document normally with seals on it. They should be at the bottom of the document attached to a ribbon. From 1600 the seals made way for autographs or signatures The “lakennijverheid” is a trade of cloth makers and of huge economical interest in Gent (whole of Flanders really)”

An important document with costly silk. Woven in plain weave. Possibly in a rigid heddle.
/ Amica & Maria
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Advent calendar December 5 2020

Today we would like to present an altar cloth woven in brocaded on the counted thread. Woven in linen. The pattern is today very white, but have a tiny, tiny, blue tint. It is possibly that the pattern originally was dyed blue.

The tablet woven band sewn to the edge is woven with 2 plied linen thread in the warp. 6 tablets set in VVV.
Dated to the 15th century.

Today in the collections of The Swedish History museum.
/ Amica & Maria
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Advent calendar December 4 2020

Todays post is two painted saints on an antependium.
Paint on a plain weave, linen. Dated to the second half of the 15th century.

The antependium can be found in the collections of The Swedish History Museum.
/ Amica and Maria

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Advent calendar December 3 2020

Behind door number 3 we find a Viking age posament from Birka, Sweden.

The metal wire is made out of silver and the core is a textile fibre. We don’t know if the textile fiber is made out of silk or linen.

Today the posament can be found in the collections of The Swedish History museum.

/ Amica and Maria
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